Study in Koi Appreciation

Introduction to Koi Appreciation: Kohaku & Taisho Sanshoku ( Sanke )

I would like to introduce these two variety of Japanese Koi from the Gosanke group and show some pictures of the beautiful specimen from the respective variety for study, comparison and appreciation.

Let's start with the Kohaku, a red and white coloured koi, from the Gosanke group:

Case Study No.1

Which would you consider the better koi and Why?

Comments :

Koi (A) won the Kokugyo (Best in Size) prize at the All Japan Nishikigoi Show. The Kokugyo prize is one of the top awards in the Nishikigoi world. This Kohaku is a celebrated Koi and is a good representative of Japanese Koi. Especially, it is famous as an ideal 3-step Kohaku. Here I would like to discuss an ideal 3-step Kohaku.

As a Kohaku, Koi (A) has ideal Hi on its head. Koi (B)'s head is too white. It should be like Koi (A).

The next point is the Shiroji between the first and second Hi. The Shiroji of Koi (A) is like a thick, wide belt. Koi (B), on the other hand, has a thin Shiroji, which is actually not dividing the steps. It is important that the Hi plates are clearly separated like Koi (A).

If Koi (B) had the first step of its Hi pattern separated from the second step and placed a bit more to the front, it could be a very competitive Kohaku to Koi (A).

The separation between the second and the third Hi steps is about the same.

Last of all, there is another Hi plate on the left part of Koi (A) between the first and the second step. You might question whether or not it is good for the Hi to be there. Without the Hi, Koi (A) would be a very bright and clear 3-step Kohaku, but at the same time, it would be an ordinary 3 step Kohaku, without uniqueness. This Hi plate makes this Kohaku unique, and therefore it should be the winner in a koi show.

Case Study No. 2

Comments on the 2 koi:

These Kohaku are both about 80-85 cm (32-34 in.). The patterns are both three- step. In pattern, Koi (B) is far better. However, the reason that Koi (A), whose pattern is clearly inferior, appears with Koi (B) in our study material is that the pattern will not look as bad (as it does now) when it grows big and fat.

The high point of Koi (A) is that it is a good three-step Kohaku.

However, there are 2 defects on this Koi. One is that the first Hi does not match the shape of the second Hi. The other is that the third Hi has a line along the dorsal fin. It would be better if these defects were not there. Red on both eyes of Koi (A) is only a tiny defect. There is a Hi at the base of the right pectoral fin. At this size, it is not considered a defect because it is not usually visible when we view the Koi.

Case Study No. 3 Taisho Sanshoku

Let's examine these two Taisho Sanshoku ( commonly called Sanke ):

Which one would you say is the better Sanke?

Appreciation Comments:

The topic here is Aka ( red ) Sanke with very little Shiroji ( white ).

An Aka Sanke is a Taisho Sanshoku which has a Hi plate that occupies 70-80% of its body. The factors in Aka Sanke are quality of the Sumi and the Shiroji. Because Sumi and Shiroji are both observed in very small quantities, their quality is required to be higher than an ordinary Taisho Sanshoku. The big Hi plate, Sumi and Shiroji should be well designed.

Koi (A) has a very beautiful face thanks to good Shiroji and excellent Hi ( red ) quality. Also, the large Sumi ( black ) on the shoulder finishes well and looks dignified. The tail section is also finished well with high quality Sumi, which make the whole Koi appear solid. The highlights of this Koi are the beautiful face, the Sumi on the shoulder and the Sumi on the tail section. These three points keep everything balanced and make it attractive.

On the other hand, Koi (B) forms its pattern with a good balance of Hi and Shiroji. Although there are only 4 small Sumi patches around the center of its body, the Sumi keeps in harmony with the Hi and Shiroji. Although there is Hi at the very end of the tail section, there is Odome ( region between the tail and anal fin ).

Because the Hi quality, the Shiroji quality and the Sumi quality are all very good, on the whole this Koi looks very beautiful. Without the excellent quality, it would not look this beautiful. In addition, you can tell that the Sumi is of real quality from the Sashi of the Sumi on the right shoulder.

To answer the question of which is more beautiful, Koi (B) should be the one.

Although Koi (A) and Koi (B) are of the same quality level. In this case, Koi (B) with the more beautiful design will win.

Case Study No. 4: Taisho Sanshoku

Appreciation Comments:

They are both beautiful specimen and representative of their variety. They both have the appropriate amount of Sumi ( black skin ) on their pectoral fins ( also known as motogoro ). Their Shiroji ( white skin ) are good. They have a similar Hi pattern. They are almost Ipponhi (one Hi pattern.), but it runs side to side very symmetrically. But when we compare their Sumi patterns, Koi (B)'s is much better than Koi (A)'s. On Koi (B), the powerful Sumi matches the flow of the Hi.

Koi (B) is now about 70cm (28 "). With more flesh and growth, it should develop into a much lovelier koi. It holds good promise for future koi competition.

Koi (A) has a beautiful flow of Hi. The entry of the Hi is clean, and it is linked to the back Hi. It covers the trunk like a butterfly. The Odome Hi stops perfectly at the tail section. The small Sumi in the Shiroji of the shoulder is a good reflection of its beauty.

It is faultlessly beautiful. Because its Sumi quality is very fine, larger Sumi would make her a more unique and attractive Koi.

The Answer is Koi (B).

I hope this is a good introductory exercise and that you can now have a better idea which koi to select when buying your prize koi.

AN IDEAL 12 TONS POND & FILTER SYSTEM – For Beginners

I post below an article from Mr Eric Lim, a member of the Singapore Koi Club, who wrote a very comprehensive article on the construction of a 12- ton outdoor pond complete with filtration. I have benefited from his ideas and design and would like to share this article with all readers.

Many a times, new koi hobbyists got caught with the love of nishikigoi. Not knowing that koi do create lot of waste & need frequent maintenance if the filter system is not done correctly, most proceed to get a easily / cheaply done pond / filter & then proceed to buy expensive koi – only to see one by one dying off.

The most common problem is due to wrong design of the filter system (especially the size of drain line), making cleaning of the first few chambers tedious. So owner clean less often, causing water quality to go bad, then koi getting sick – And after 2 yrs. of frustration - Owner gave up!

The objective of this article is to help new hobbyists to plan a good working filter system and other useful tips, so as to make koi keeping an enjoyable hobby and not be slave to the hobby.



By recommending a near 13tons pond, this I felt is the minimum that one can go, especially keeping out-door in our tropical weather. Remember that water temperature can rise a lot in the hot afternoon sun. Also, green algae will be a problem if the capacity of the filter is insufficient. Actually for this problem, top shading is a must to control algae growth. Most of our advance club members’ ponds have top full shading. But remember to use strong wooden structure & non-toxic paint or coating. `Chenghai’ wood is meant for out-door use, can even be use submerge in the filter. All filter top covering (to preserve biological bacteria growth) should also use this.



Another common problem is – many ponds have objects/ pipes sticking out in the main ponds, thereby causing injury to koi when it dash madly during feeding, etc. Sometimes, the injury cannot heal over time and your precious buy becomes a junk koi.



This capacity is not meant to keep jumbo koi. Achieving 70cm growth is possible, with low stock. But best to keep `bonsai’ koi for high stocking. Still, knowing new hobbyists, they tend to over-crowd. Hence the filter system is 40% of the total capacity. Or 60% of the main pond.





The key things to remember are:

1. 
   No objects sticking out in the main pond to prevent injury.
2. Top shading is required if exposed to long hours of sunlight. Will reduce much algae growth.
3. Depth of pond – not less than 5 feet. Best if at 6 feet & more. In the afternoon, surface will heat-up and koi will swim down to stay cool.
4. Cleaning of CH1 is daily or minimum, 2 days once. Pending the amount of dust, CH2 & 3 may also be as regular. If not – clean weekly.
5. Be discipline & keep good water by regular cleaning. The koi will stay healthy & take care of itself.
6. Size of drainage (here its 4ins.) – larger means drain faster, you clean happier & more regularly.
7. Don’t let the contractor out-talk you into a smaller size, to save budget. Think long terms. At least 3” minimum.
8. Biological bacteria do not establish after 3 feet depth. So no point having a deep filter. Shallow depth makes it easier to view & clean.
9. Electrical Points – best to install different circuit breakers for both water pumps as most cheap mechanical-seal pump only has a life span of 2 to 3 yrs. If one trip causing all power supply to stop and no one is at home for long hours – expensive mistake. If you only have one water pump & one air pump – also use two CB points. Koi will not die as far as there is air circulation in the main pond. Air pump does not trip. UV unit needs electricity too.
10. Pump turnover rate – the total capacity should not be less than once / hour. Present design using two OMU-2 pumps (total capacity = 26,400 liters /hr.) is 2 times / hour.
    Back flushing from P2 – use this for back cleaning of bio. chambers. Do not use tap water to back wash.
11. If pH is low (6.5 or <), convert CH 6 to hold coral chips in holding bags for easier cleaning. Dirty chips not wash can caused `Hikkui’ disease.

Operation:

1. 
   To clean CH1, pull out PP No.1 (pull pipe), plug into 4” inlet (to stop flow) & pull out BP1 (by-pass) to continue the filter flow. Pull out PPA to drain to dry sump. Pull out PPF to drain to sewer.
2. To clean CH2 & 3, pull out PP No.2 & 3. Pull out BP1 (by-pass) to continue flow. Pull out PPB to drain to dry sump & PPF to sewer.
3. To clean CH4, 5 & 6. Pull out BP3 (by-pass) to continue pumps outlet. Pull out PP4 & PPA for CH4 and PP5, 6 & PPE & D for CH5 & 6 to drain to dry sump. PPF - to sewer.
4. To drain pond bottom, pull out PPC & PPF to drain to sewer.

Overflow points – As no pipes are to protrude out, all up-turn inlet elbows are recess into the filter chambers.

OF No.1 (over-flow) – is set at just below the usual water level. This is a continuous flow, to skim & maintain the water surface sparking clean. OF 2 is lower by 3in than OF 1, for by-pass use.



OF 3 – is set higher by 2 inches from OF 1. In the event oily or dusty surface was encountered, top-in tap water to increase the height & continue a flow to skim out the scum. OF 1 is shut-off.
Converting CH No.1 chamber into a hospital/ quarantine tank – Pull out BP 2 (by-pass). OF 2 short pipe swap over to cover OF 1. Insert a 4” pull pipe to close up the inlet. See Note 1 & 2 = the heights are different. By dropping usual water level, CH 1 is isolated by itself. Inlet now starts at BP 2 (CH 2).



Medicating/ isolating the main pond and convert filter system to self-circulation – Pull out BP 3 & plug up CH 1 inlet. Drop usual water level till below CH 6 outlet level. Disconnect water pump P 2 and put into CH 6. Run a hose to CH 2 and start P 2 circulation.



This is meant to be a last resort in situation where all koi are infected. Always practice the habit of quarantine all newly purchases and to catch & treat any sick/ injured koi ASAP, outside.



Note: If Dry Sump is lower than outside sewer, a powerful water pump with Auto-Low Level cutout must be used to push out the drained water fast.



Filter Pump use specification;



Model : OMU-2 (cost approx. S$250+)



Max cap. 220 liters/min (13,200 l /hr)



Head/Max : 5.2m Wattage : 150W



Unquote

Comments from Japanese Judges

( Translated by Hideo Takemoto san )

TAKEMOTO Hideo <hideotakemoto@anrisa.com>

Jemmy-san,

Below is the summary of Japanese judges feed back about your 81 cm Taisho Sanke Grand Champion.

1. Size, body shape and skeletal structure are excellent.

2. Size of Fukurin (fish scale) is large. (This is part of skeletal structure evaluation, the large scale is considered good.)3. Quality of Hi (Red Color) is excellent. Hi has to have strong thickness, the

hi was "thick enough".

4. Quality of Shiroji (White Color) is excellent, for them to call it "Snow White Skin" grade.

5. Quality of Sumi (Black Color) is considered excellent condition as well. Please look at Sumi condition in board view (bird view), the condition is considered well finished condition. The condition of Hi, Shiroji and Sumi are finished at excellent level.

6. Usually, keeping Sanke which has three different colors is more difficult than that of others, and it has tendency to win the prize if competitor is Kohaku and its condition is similar.

7. All three Japanese judges believed that your Sanke was going to be grand champion in their first glance even before completely seeing all other entries entries for Grand Champion koi. This shows that the Sanke is really outstanding.

8. Sumi (Black Color) of Your Taisho.I am sorry that I have forgotten one very important comment from Judges. They call Sumi of your Koi is great "Urushi Zumi" condition. Urushi means Japanese Lacquer (varnish sumac) extracted from tree.Traditional Japanese wooden china (Cups and Dishes) craft worker usually apply Urushi Lacquer for finishing of china surface, making it deeplyback and shining enough. In short, Urushi Zumi Condition means Sumi is beautiful shinny deep black.

Congratulaions!!

Regards,

Hideo Takemoto

Grand Champion - 13th Singapore Championship Koi Show

Grand Champion Owner receiving the trophy
from Japanese chief Judge, Yukio Matsushita



]

JT receiving the GC Challenge trophy from
Chief Judge, Matsushita San





Grand Champion
13th Singapore Koi Show
(5 yr old Taisho Sanshoku)



Introducing the 13th Singapore Koi Show Grand Champion, 81 cm Taisho Sanshoku ( tri color Sanke of the Wakashoryu bloodline ) owned by Mr jemmy Tan.